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Hot Day, Cold Ramen
We were rolling down Hudson St, just past the tunnel, Julio Iglesias sang La Mer and I think my feet were hanging out of the window. It was something like a welcome back to New York, the city jubilant...
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Kakigori
The city of Kyoto was built in a valley surrounded by the highlands of Higashiyama, Kitayama, and Nishiyama, rolling mountains which trap the heat and humidity every summer during the rainy season...
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Gazpacho al-Andalus
For the first week in Chicago we were treading lightly. Promises were made to have the gas stove working in our apartment within a week although the landlord said it probably worked already. Fearing a...
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Tacos de Pollo
The city of Chicago has become famous for its upscale Mexican restaurants, but I will remember it for its humble taquerias spread throughout the city, little neighborhood joints each with their own...
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Tsukemono
The rules of life, as they occur to a child, are a matter of intuition and inheritance. One that comes to mind, sacred in its comprehensive clarity, was that nothing but chopsticks touch a bowl of...
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Curry Back-to-School
The chilly evenings of early autumn will always remind me of the anxiety I had as a child of going back to school. It meant giving up the beach and those endless days with nothing to do but swim and...
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Making Time
The farm stand closed on Sunday and I sliced up the last of it to be fried as tempura, a fitting eulogy for the season. I pulled the stainless bowl out of the freezer and mixed a light batter, keeping...
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Italian-American
Any person curious about the culinary impact of Italian immigration in America need only go to an ordinary supermarket and walk the aisles. Past the little “ethnic” sections featuring a few yards of...
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Red Lentil Soup
It is my opinion that no one should need a recipe to make a pot of soup. Sure, you might turn to a recipe if you have something very specific in mind; however, to me, soup should mainly be something...
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Ribollita
It seems the groundhog was right and we’ve been cursed with six more weeks of the worst winter in recent memory. In the past, we’ve tried preparing chilled, summery foods, trying to trick ourselves...
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